We all, inevitably, must start with the earth. Sometimes we start with a pre-existing border and strip it out. Ideally, in this case, we should cover the soil - for a growing season - with landscaping fabric. The purpose of this is to kill the roots of perennial weeds such as Ground Elder and Bindweed. But people can find it hard to wait when Spring comes and the soil warms. We all like to see a beautiful sight at this time of year!
Digging a straight-edged border, from scratch, is easy enough, but remember that it should be deep enough - from front to back - to allow a whole range of plant heights to go in: usually small ones at the front and tall ones at the back. People can choose to plant out a purely herbaceous border (made up of perennials whose tops rot down in winter, leaving a living crown beneath the surface) or they can create a mixed border which also incorporates shrubs. Bulbs will be planted in both sorts of borders. More commonly, a gardener is asked to tend a border which is overgrown and perhaps not given the time and care it needs because its owners are busy people with many demands on their time. It is then that a process of consultation begins between the garden owners and the ornamental gardener. And, when all views are considered and paid attention to, then all participants feel committed and look forward to developments in the garden. |
Just recently, I have been stripping out weeds and unwanted shrubs/perennials from a long mixed border: 35m long and 3.5m deep. I have suggested that we have principally blue and yellow flowers (white accents) in April, May, and June and principally blue and orange flowers (white accents) in July, August, and September. Three exotic, structural, plants: evergreen Yuccas will run in a line along the border. When it comes to a long border, it is important to incorporate the design principles of: repetition and simplicity. Don't just have one of anything!
With regard to foliage, remember that it is on the plant for much longer than the flowers. So it is important to choose plants with evergreen foliage, variegated foliage, plants with leaves in all shades of green - not just mid-green - blue foliage, silver foliage, yellow and red foliage. And remember not to put plants with very similar leaf size/shape/texture next to each other, because there will be no visual differentiation in the border. Consider, for example, under-planting a glossy, dark-leaved, plant such Ceanothus (Californian lilac) with silver-leaved plants such as Lamb's Ears. I have just (second week in March) purchased x12 Erisymums (perennial wallflowers, orange) and x5 Euphorbia 'Shorty.' I grouped the wallflowers in three groups of three - at intervals along the border. And marched the five Euphorbias, individually, to positions in between, and beyond the ends, of the wallflowers. This gives a length of fresh-looking colour to the border and, also, using the principles of 'repetition' and 'simplicity,' it gives a sense of order. |